Crushing in Hokkaido Japan

Recently Sachi Amma and Akiyo Noguchi fled the heat and humidity of Honshu, the main island of Japan, for relief on Hokkaido. When we left Tokyo the weather was terrible. The skies were dark and there was no end in sight of the rain stoping. Once we were in the air, everything changed. The skies cleared and our hopes were instantly through the roof.

Once on the ground in Hokkaido the weather stayed clear. I noticed in the distance that there were lots of ominous clouds moving over the mountains. I asked Sachi what direction we were going and he pointed straight at the darkening mountains.

Once we arrived to the red chert crag, it was obvious that the rain that was moving in was not going to stop. Sachi and Akiyo harnessed put, threw on their boots and tied in. The first day was very impressive. Akiyo made the hardest women’s onsight on Japanese soil with her send of Hidakagenryu- Esaoman(8a). Sachi was trying the hardest route on Hokkaido and was very close to sending on the first day, but would save it for the next climbing day.

Day two was spent resting, since Sachi and Akiyo had been climbing so much over the last week. We toured the Sapporo seafood markets and ate delicious miso ramen. We visited Whippersnapper bouldering gym which is owned by Sachi and Akiyo’s friends.

On the third day Sachi was psyched to try and send Mu-kamu(8c+/9a). He and Akiyo warmed up on 天国列車 Heaven’s train(7b) and he was ready to try the 8c+/9a. After an intense effort, Sachi Amma became only the 3rd known person to send the route. I asked him what he thought of the grade and he said that the moves were not too tough, but were very pumpy. Right after his impressive send Sachi took a break to belay Akiyo. Soon he was ready for some more pebble wrestling and flashed a tough route named Jingle bell(8a+) which is on the same roof and to the right of Hidakagenryu- Esaoman.

All said and done it was a very productive trip and an absolute pleasure to witness and document. There is some great footage that is being edited now so stay tuned for more to come.

Go Climb Something!!!